Everything You Need to Know About Princess-Cut Gems

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Princess-cut gems are some of the most beautiful stones in the world of fine jewelry. Originally, the princess cut was applied to diamonds and is now used with colored gemstones as well. Join us as we delve into the fascinating world of gemstone faceting and princess-cut ring designs.

What Is a Princess Cut?

What actually constitutes a princess cut has been something of a mystery in the jewelry world. In general, we expect to see a square or rectangle of some kind, but the rest of the details can vary greatly! When a collection of “princess-cut gems” were examined by the International Gem Society, the gemologists found that most of the stones shared the following features:

  • Square corners
  • Two to four tiers of “V” shaped facets on the pavilion
  • A step-cut crown
  • A tier of scissor cuts at the table

Let’s take a look at each of these features and what they mean for a princess-cut ring.

Square Corners

The square corners on princess-cut gems constitute a large part of their appeal. They lend themselves to the creation of exquisite channel settings and look fancy when held with a set of prongs.

When faceting princess-cut stones, there are two cuts that can be used to connect the corners of the gem to the corners of the table (the flat surface at the top of the stone):

  • Bezel cut: This is the most stable of the two with a diamond-shaped facet connecting the corners.
  • French cut: This is a fancier star-shaped facet, which is very elegant but less robust.

While the French cut is undoubtedly beautiful, the bezel cut is the more durable of the two. This is an important factor to keep in mind if your ring is intended for everyday wear.

Faceting on the Pavilion

The pavilion (or underside) of a gemstone is designed to maximize its brilliance by reflecting light back up through the stone. In a princess-cut gem, the pavilion can have two, three, or four chevron-shaped facets, all with their own unique optical properties:

  • Two chevrons: For bold flashes of light.
  • Three chevrons: For a balance of scintillation and boldness.
  • Four chevrons: For smaller, scintillating facets.

The number of chevrons is a highly personal decision. In a quality gem, all three options are exquisite.

Step-Cut Crown and Scissor-Cut Table

The crown (topside) of a princess-cut ring is generally cut in steps to give it a flat — rather than round — appearance. For fancy cuts like a princess, the steps are achieved with the use of (triangle-shaped) scissor cuts rather than the flat steps that are used for an emerald or square.

At most, a princess gemstone will have one or two steps with scissor cuts that lead up to the table. This creates a table that is about 75% of the width of the gem — considered ideal for a high-quality princess-cut gem.

Designing a Dazzling Princess-Cut Ring

With their dazzling optical properties, princess-cut gems are an ideal choice for engagement rings, eternity rings, and even everyday gemstone rings. Here are some design ideas using this fancy gemstone cut — ranging from modern to vintage and everything in between.

Princess-Cut Engagement Ring

Cathedral Princess Pave Jala Peridot Ring

A princess-cut gemstone or diamond makes for an eye-catching centerpiece in a solitaire engagement ring design. It also looks bigger than a round-cut gem of the same carat because of the higher diagonal length of the stone.

For a spectacular princess-cut engagement ring, consider a solitaire design with a large center stone or a three-stone design that combines diamonds and gems. Make sure your chosen design secures the stone safely with prongs to prevent it from chipping or snagging on your clothes.

Princess-Cut Eternity Ring

Eternity Sacakra Blue Sapphire Band

Eternity rings are popular as wedding rings and are also given on wedding anniversaries. These rings symbolize never-ending love and offer an extravagant show of color and light.

For the brightest, most colorful eternity design, we love princess-cut rings with a channel setting that creates a continuous line of color. Go for a single gem such as your birthstone or anniversary gem or alternate gems for a flashy display.

Princess-Cut Modern Ring

Simple Bezel Princess Cut Bhavah Swiss Blue Topaz Band

In everyday rings, princess-cut stones provide a modern, geometric look that can be used in a wide range of designs. Princess-cut solitaire rings with a smaller, colored center stone are ideal as promise rings and three-stone designs are also very attractive.

If you would like a minimalist ring simply intended as a daily adornment, consider a princess-cut ring with small, dainty squares or an eternity setting to wear on a different (non-ring) finger.

Princess-Cut Vintage Ring

Eternity Kuttima Amethyst Band with Diamond in 14k Yellow Gold

Vintage is the final genre where a princess-cut gem can really shine. Typically, vintage and antique rings today are inspired by the Art Deco movement of the early 20th century and feature bold geometric and nature-inspired motifs.

To create a princess-cut vintage everyday ring, go for bezel-set gems in an alternating pattern or a princess center stone adorned with milgrain and intricate metalwork. A custom ring can be created with any combination of features you like. Be sure to ask about this creative option!

Ensure the Highest Quality of Princess-Cut Gems

As you have seen, there are several decisions and factors that go into creating the perfect princess-cut gemstone with just the right facets to optimize light. This is the work of a master cutter and can take years of experience to perfect.

At AZEERA, we craft princess-cut rings with the finest gemstones available in the world that are cut to precision in our family-owned facility and inspected seven times before sale. When you order a personalized ring online, we will match your gems by color and cut to ensure a uniform aesthetic that brings out each gemstone’s brilliance and glow.

If you are interested in ordering a princess-cut ring for a milestone event or everyday inspiration, please reach out to our expert gemologists. We would be delighted to help you craft the perfect ring — a ring that helps you sparkle at your brightest.

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